Chobe River: River Cruise Experience

Morgan was the captain, although Kleitius was his senior and did most of the spade work during our time aboard the Chobe Princess. A tall man Kleitius, better suited to basketball no doubt than schlepping rich-whitey up and down the Chobe River to gawp at Elephant Bay. Elephant Bay is a shallow gorge, thick with red sand, littered with elephant dung and catfish skeletons.

The elephants descend the slope to the water’s edge with the same gaiety that a child does when scampering down the hallway to the open his present on Christmas Day. They are unfazed when the small man boats come within 10 feet of the river’s edge to witness them drinking. Unlike the pod of hippos who we saw nestled up like boulderous blobs on the same bay an hour later. Within two minutes they each hoist themselves from their peaceful slumber, which seems a terrible upheaval and inconvenience and plunge deliberately into the river without breaking stride.

On the same bay we saw an African Eagle fish strip the tail meat off a recent catch. Occasionally it would take a break to swill its beak in the river before skipping back to shore to continue its lunch. Its talons pinned the belly of the catfish to the ground and with-its pincer-like beak, it snipped at its gills and fins like a surgeon. Then, as if it grew impatient with having an audience in such proximity, it wretched its body back in a sling shot motion and cah-hawwed violently to its mate, signaling for help with the feast.

Further along the Chobe River a crocodile sniffs out a troop of baboons plucking the grass roots near the water’s It swims slowly to towards the scent, it's body beginning to descend, with only its eyes and nostrils showing, then as it drew closer, nothing. Disappearing completely. Crocodiles charge on the banks like solar panels during the day ahead of a night of hunting in the river.

The kingfishers dart in tandem and once they have made a successful catch, smash the fish to death on a tree with several jolts of its neck, whilst still clutching it's catch within its beak. It’s the most incredible sight and Kleitius admits it to being his favourite.

A Water Monitor disguises itself along the branch of a dead tree strewn across the bank. It feasts on Crocodile eggs once the mother leaves the nest.

Kleitius spots a mother with a baby rhino on the last turn before departure. The mother takes to water and the baby follows dutifully.

‘That was either born this morning or last night’ said Kleitius.

"How can you tell I asked?'

"Because it can barely walk," he replied.

The Cruise itself was a very enjoyable and serene experience. We had the upgraded suite that faced headlong into the Chobe River. With a couple of chairs and the sun in our faces, it was every bit as luxurious and relaxing as you can imagine. The Chobe River is not as free flowing as the Zambezi, so you may be prone to a few more mosquito bites. 

The food was plentiful, and you should endeavor to eat as much as possible because the kitchen staff look genuinely hurt when the plates aren't cleaned.